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I recently journeyed with teammate Adam Langford 74 kilometers across Mount Elgon which straddles the border of Uganda and Kenya. Photographs never can capture the essence of such a trip and such a mountain which is why I've always had a strong impulse to journal thoughts, feelings, and conversations of life lived on the trail. I thought I would share the journals entries I kept during our trip. If you need to see it to believe it here is a video/slideshow I put together as well:
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Although the fourth highest mountain (at 14,178 Feet) in East Africa, Mount Elgon kind of sneaks up on you. The massive base of this extinct volcano keeps you from realizing its imposing height until you begin ascending its slopes. And then, amidst its many peaks, a 40 square kilometer caldera (crater formed by a volcanic implosion) awaits the trekker who has passed through the clouds and the diverse plant/climate zones ringing the mountain: the cultivated barelands, montane rainforest, bamboo forest, heath zone, and afro-alpine moorland.
 We choose to climb Elgon over other adventure options because of cost and convenience but also because of its unknown qualities. Unlike other mountains well documented by detailed maps and guidebooks, Elgon must be experienced to be known. A massive rainbow emerged as we approached the base of Elgon at Budadiri.
Upon arrival at the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) office we are received as welcomed visitors. Visitors mean business for local communities and employment for porters and ranger guides who will escort us up the mountain. The porters introduce themselves as Kenneth and Bonafas, and the guides Kipsam Fred and Robert. The guides are friendly and engaging. Fred has an infectious laugh. We make arrangements to leave in the morning before throwing down our tent at Rose's Last Chance. At Roses' we enjoy a Ugandan dinner of rice and fish, and later the company of Simon and Masimu who had just returned from the summit. Simon is an archeologist from Scotland who primarily worked in China . Masimu, his wife, is native Japanese. A three hour long discussion with them about Elgon, world history, and culture lasted until 11 PM.
Bumasola (5570 Ft) to Sasa River Camp (9515 Ft) - 7 Kilometers
 Our crew packed into an old Toyota from Roses' to go the Bumasola trailhead. The trail initially took us through a patchwork of cultivated lands on the slope with the main ridge of the Sasa trail looking down on our approach. Balancing the claims of local inhabitants to land and resources on Elgon is a difficult task for the UWA, especially in a newly created park like Elgon, established in 1993. Fred and Robert carry their authority on their uniforms and the AK-47s slung over their shoulders which were a little disconcerting at first (I found myself making sure the safety was engaged, but do they work?). The ridge is gained by negotiating the so-called "Wall of Death" which earned its name not for any fatalities but for the rickety system of ladders and muddy passes that lead to the top of the ridge. The panoramic views from the Ladders are extraordinary but are soon lost behind the rainforest canopy on the ridge.  We entered a cathedral of tall mossy limbs branching from old growth trees enveloping us in dense shade. As we walked Fred explained the medicinal, religious, and culinary virtues of several plants. After about thirty minutes of hiking, the trees began reacting to the movements of several families of blue monkeys that had become aware of our presence. They started alerting each other with noisy calls which unseen colobus monkeys answered on the other side of the trail.
The Sasa River Camp is cut into the transitional rainforest/bamboo zones on the mountain. After stopping we began sensing the altitude mildly affecting us and causing us to feel somewhat lethargic. Last night we slept around 4000 feet above sea level. Tonight we are at 9515 feet. After dinner we visit the guides and porter's hut, sit by the fire, tell some jokes, discuss football (soccer), then turn into our sleeping bags at 8:30 PM.
Sasa River Camp to Mude Cave Camp (11482 Ft) - 5 Kilometers
 With only a five kilometer hike over a gradual gain of 2000 feet on today's itinerary, we leisurely ease into the morning. Like yesterday, the trail is muddy and the footing is not always sure. At around 10,500 feet, the mixed forest gradually becomes dominated by bamboo, shooting up 25-35 feet from the ground interspersed by forest lobelia. The heath zone of the mountain 500 feet higher begins more abruptly. The small evergreen-like trees afford us our first views off the mountain since the Ladders and they are impressive. We can identify in the distance the caldera rim and several peaks but our attention is drawn to the clouds whipping along the ridge lines below us. The trail is now padded by mountain grasses which soften our steps and allow us to think less about our footing and more about the surrounding scenery. The most unique section of trail took us among endemic groundsels. The bizarre small trees rise up out of the mountain heath in the oddest formations.
 Mude (pronounced moo-dae) Cave Camp is situated on a ridge and represents an opportunity to acclimate to the higher elevation and thinning air. Clouds continue to shift under, over, and around us before giving way to sunshine to dry our gear and bodies. It is peaceful up here. We hear the sounds of running water and blowing wind but little else. The camp site is picturesque, surrounded by mountain heath and grasses on the slopes dropping on either side. - Altitude sickness struck suddenly and violently and I've been throwing up since dinner.
Summit Day: Mude Cave Camp to Wagagai Peak, 18 Kilometers
 I was hopeful that the previous night's sickness would not carry over into the morning but I was not so fortunate. I tried to force down some water and a powerbar but minutes later threw up. At 7:00 AM, we decided to make for the summit anyway holding out the possibility that if I keep sipping water I might make it to the top. In the first 4.5 K we climbed 1650 feet to the caldera rim at 13,125 feet. It was slow going in the chilly air with frost underfoot. We stopped every 30 minutes for breaks during which I would often fall asleep in the grass before waking up to continue. We made it to the rim around 10:00 AM and pushed forward another half kilometer before Fred strongly suggested that I return back to camp since I was not improving and we still had three days left in the trip to adjust our plans should my body adjust to altitude. Adam continued to Wagagai peak with Robert. In about an hour and a half I was back in my sleeping bag at Mude Cave.
 I had strong feelings of frustration and regret on the return, aware of the moment's gift to have a week away from work and family to climb this mountain. But I came to Elgon in search of an experience, not an accomplishment, and in reality can bear the present loss in view of enjoying the trip as a whole. First things first though: I've got to get better. Fred brought me some rice from their camp and laid out the options: if I can recover we can head back to the rim tomorrow where we can choose between short or long itineraries before finishing the day at Hunters Cave camp, or we can head back down to Sasa River camp at a lower altitude. Adam rolls into camp around 3:00 PM, tells me his summit story, and affirms my decision to return to camp. I'm glad one of us summited Wagagai. I slept the rest of the day away.
Mude Cave Camp to Hunters Cave Camp (10836 Ft), 18 Kilometers
 I arose out of the ten around 7 AM to great a new day as a new man. My improved condition must be attributed to prayer, divine intervention, and perhaps the fact that I had slept 16 of the previous 20 hours. Fred guides our cautiously optimistic climb to the caldera rim at 13,450 feet. From there we are to decide whether to follow the rim to Hunter's Cave or cross the caldera to the hot springs at the Suam gorge which drains the caldera. The ridge we followed to the rim offered some impressive views down the Simu gorge and interesting turns around rock crevices. The view of the rim into the caldera was draw-dropping and we struggled to absorb the full scope of what we were witnessing. We felt good enough about our condition and intrigued enough by the surrounding scenes to take the plunge into the caldera. Kenneth and Bonafas traveled with our gear on the shortcut around the rim to Hunter's Cave Camp.
 The caldera presented itself as a wonderland of strange plant life, jagged rock formations, played out within the coliseum of surrounding mountain peaks including imposing Koitoboss in Kenya rising from the lower end. The trail down was 6 KM descending over 2300 feet, with each kilometer revealed a new vantage point and experience. Hidden pristine creeks cut their way through knee-high vegetation to the Suam River. One such creek came out of hiding to reveal an incredible (and unanticipated) waterfall. At the bottom of the caldera the peaks seemed even more majestic, emerging for moments at a time behind the swirling clouds. The hot springs in comparison were anti-climatic just a small pool of hot water (120 degrees) in rock tub coated with slimy moss. More memorable was the cape buffalo skull (the remains of poacher activity) and our wade in underwear into Kenya across the Suam River.
After these we allowed ourselves to accept the hard reality: we now had to cross and climb out of the caldera to get to the night's camp. Fred suggested a short cut shaving distance at the expense of steeper incline. The trail out existed more clearly in Fred's mind than on the terrain itself, but we simply followed him in constant awe of our surroundings. I couldn't decide if Fred's lack of clarity regarding distance and elevation was a blessing or a curse, especially when just over the hill revealed a descent and another ridge to climb. Occasional breaks and new vantage points into the caldera kept us too distracted to complain. When we finally gained the rim Fred raised his arms in the air, smiled, and dropped to the ground. "In my heart I was fearing this climb," he explained, "But I couldn't tell you the whole truth, just enough to prepare you." Mountain guide psychology or pragmatic Ugandan ambiguity? I'm not sure. But I'm glad to finish the day with descent on the North slope to camp.
Hunters Cave Camp to Piswa Camp (9350 Ft) - 16 Kilometers
 Began this Sunday morning on the ridge with a reading from Psalm 121. During my backpacking days in college this Psalm was always shared by me and my friends when we found ourselves on the trail together on Sunday mornings. As I read the Psalm I could hear the words spoken at several rock bluffs and waterfalls that are landmarks in my memory. It was meaningful to spiritually connect this experience in Africa to those I had in the States and assert with greater awareness: "the Lord will watch over your coming and going, both now and forevermore."
Elevation continues to dictate the terrain and terms of our journey. Altitude sickness struck Adam this morning and weakened him considerably for our dissent to Piswa Camp in the rainforest below. Fred tells us the Piswa trail is the road less taken averaging 5-10 parties per year. I am inclined to believe him as nothing as distinct as a trail emerges in the calf to knee high grasses under which uneven terrain causes us to measure our steps as we follow. The northwest slope is more sweeping with ridges stretching far along the cloud tops concealing the lower slopes. We transition from alpine moorland to heath zone over discussions about the differences between Ugandan and American politics, culture, and social responsibility.
 The less rigorous walk seemed to invite conversation. The rainforest appears abruptly as we descend. We are welcomed into the new zone by the low croaks of colobus monkeys. This time we see the black and white creatures jumping along the bamboo covered ridge opposite our own. Colobus sightings continue as we enter the rainforest canopy although their perpetual motion and the density of the forest refuse our cameras a photo. I wish my boys could see this!
Today's journey ends at Piswa Camp, an unfortunate site on a ridge top clearing. A twisted communication tower, battered water tank, and toppled wood-burning stove are the remains of a burned patrol hut established to secure the northern border of the park. Poachers burned the hut three years ago (as they did the Hunter's Cave hut). Mount Elgon is a park in the making, recovering from the exploitation and misuse of Uganda's corrupt regimes of the past while negotiating ongoing claims on the land by local communities.
A thunderstorm engulfs our campsite for several hours this evening. It is a rainforest after all and it is the rainy season.
Piswa Camp to Kapkwata Trail Head (7217 Ft) - 11 Kilometers
 Awoke this morning to a soggy camp anticipating a journeys end. Only a half a kilometer down the trail the rainforest begins mixing with rich green pasturelands. A herd of cattle look like specs in a valley deep below our ridge and prompt Fred to share a little more about Elgon's unfolding story. Locals are allowed to graze their cattle up in the high lands for select times during the year. It is a concession the UWA hopes can sustain the tenuous relationship between the park and the local communities. Fred speaks passionately about the subject. He lives in the village where our trail ends today and thus lives in the tension between the community of his birth and the outside forces involved in the creation of a land conservation area.
 After a few kilometers and a couple of hours on the trail we meet a UWA ranger patrol in the rainforest. The sight of people other than our party makes us aware of the fact we haven't seen any tourists since we left Budadiri six days ago. And we won't see any till we reach Sipi falls which helps us value these last stages of our descent. The rainforest begins mixing with pastureland again and we gain views off the North side of the mountain into Karamoja land, including an eerie looking pyramid shaped mountain. The Maize fields stretching accross Kapkwata signal the final lap. We complete our journey at the trailhead with handshakes and hugs with our guides and porters.
Postscript
 I anticipated that Kapkwata and the Piswa trailhead would be the end of our story, but we still had to get back to our car at the other side of the mountain. The only way to do that, outside of over-priced "private hire," is by taking public means. And public means on this side of the mountain are limited to Lorries making runs from Kenya to Mbale. Adam and I negotiated our way onto a big lorry with 52, that's right 52 other Ugandans to travel the 32 kilometer first leg of the trip to Kapchorwa. It was a journey that took almost 3 hours to complete. I spent half of that time trying to absorb the beauty of the cultivated slopes of Elgon and the mountainous Karamoja land beyond, and the other half of the time positioning my body to throw myself out of the lorry should it flip over (which I thought it would do about a dozen times on the muddy, rocky, uneven road). We then packed into a small car the driver would turn off on down hill runs to conserve fuel on the way to Sipi Falls. After a night at the Crow's Nest overlooking the falls we then packed into another car before hiring a boda boda to take me the last 9 kilometers to Rose's. What I thought was the end of the journey was only the beginning of another.
Wider reading about Elgon upon return led me to debates on the international level reflecting the tensions and conflicts at the national and regional level in Uganda. Here are links to two articles representing two different viewpoints about the existence of Mount Elgon National Park and its policies enacted by the UWA and international environmental and development groups: http://www.iucn.org/themes/ceesp/publications/TILCEPA/Parks13_1-pp28-49.pdf and http://www.newint.org/features/2006/07/01/uganda/
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